Germany: My Return to the Motherland

Oh, Germany. Here I am, in the motherland. From the moment I got on the plane leaving Norway it became apparent to me that English had left the building. It was Deutsche only from here on in. For some reason I find it easier to speak German when I am outside. Don’t ask me why. At first I was a little confused, often going to pronounce words with a Norwegian pronunciation. Now I am thinking in German almost all the time, and it’s getting more and more difficult to speak, think and write in English. Actually, when I was thinking of things to write here, I was thinking of how I would write it in German. I guess this will be a useful transition to Brazil where there is even less English.

When I arrived at the airport my grandmother, grandfather, aunt and uncle and two gorgeous little cousins were waiting for me. It was such a surprise, but I felt so close and familiar with them straight away. The temperature increase was quite a surprise as well. It has been 40+C in Berlin the last few days. However I think I brought the cold south with me from Norway, as the temperature has been far more moderate since I arrived. Nevertheless I packed for a European ‘Summer’ and a Southern Brazilian ‘Winter’, so my wardrobe is not really compatible with the heat.

I am in Hamburg. Every city in Germany boasts a different culture, environment and reputation. The south is particularly Bavarian, the east is Russian-influenced, and the North is ‘high-German’, and every region has its own flare. I feel that Hamburg is similar to Berlin (at least in the Centrum on the weekend) but with more greenery and of course the Harbour shapes the Hamburg city dramatically too. The architecture here is distinctly post-war. Hamburg was one of the unfortunate cities which was bombed 80+% in the war, and hence there are few original buildings left. Some of the original buildings are St Michaels Church (Michaeliskirche), and the Rathaus. When you see these buildings, you become immersed with the opulence of the architecture and the history it represents. There are few buildings quite so magnificent.

Yesterday I went to the ‘Welcome Point’ along the Elbe River with my grandfather for lunch. Every time a ship goes past on its way to the harbour there is a welcoming announcement and the national anthem of the ship is played. My grandfather is an extravaggent character, to say the least, and made friends with not only all the waitstaff, but everyone we walked past on the way from the car to the restaurant. Nevertheless, his charm must have worked on the Algerian waiter who served us, and the next thing I know an Australian U-Boat, called Sydney, was welcomed into Hamburg. The Australian national anthem was hence played and the entire audience stood up to look for it and take pictures. Obviously there was no U-boat, but only my grandfather and I knew that. It was certainly a moment I’ll never forget.

So, Hamburg, what is it like? Well, it’s certainly big. The city centre feels bigger than any Australian city at least, primarily because of the high density living. But for such a small area of land there is so much, everywhere, all the time. Hamburg screams efficiency. It is an incredibly green city. I always remember it being green, but there are just trees everywhere, lining every street and along every sidewalk. The system here is completely different from Norway, and more alike to Australia actually. Punk fashion is still very much alive. There are bicycles everywhere, and even more black cars. Mercedes, BMW, Audi and VW are the norm. Houses are few, and most people live in apartments. There is an abundance of German flags scattered all over the city, and this is a new phenomenon since 2006 after the World Cup. Germans for the first time in 60 years are feeling ‘allowed’ to be proud of their national identity, and it has definitely shaped the country in a positive way. However, compared to Norway where only the national flag is flown, there are many other flags from other nations across the city.

There are cultural hubs everywhere in the Centrum. Today we went on a tour of the Harbour with the whole family, and then we had dinner in the Portuguese area of Hamburg. Afterwards we drove past the Reeperbahn. The Reeperbahn is famous for many things, such as where the Beatles became famous. However it is more famous (or should I say infamous) for its Red Light District. In Australia and Norway street-drinking and prostitution is illegal, but here in Hamburg it is very much allowed. I have never seen so many prostitutes, all of whom are normal, nice looking girls. Of course there are the ones in fishnet stockings and little clothing, but many look like your average university student. There is also one part of the Reeperbahn no women are allowed to enter (except the ones who work there of course). How curious. This city has such a lively atmosphere, where old, young, ethnic, tourists, locals all come together and just exist as they are.

I am staying with my grandparents out of the city in a clean, cute, green part of Hamburg, Bergstedt. It is quite a contrast to the city. I have been immensely enjoying spending time with my family. I am enjoy listening to my grandparents stories about love, life, politics and the war. I have a big soft spot for my little cousins Theo and Malte too.

I am currently on my way to Lubeck in Schleswig-Holstein to spend some time with my Grandmothers brother, and his daughter (technically my aunt, but we are similar age and I consider her more to be my cousin). I always have lots of fun with Martina, and Lubeck has beaches and Marzipan so I know this will be a good weekend!